Improvement in machines for sewing hat-tips to linings



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Sewing Machine Attachment for Stiching Hat Tips to the Linings.

Patented August 8, 187.1.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2. JACQB L. (IQLES.

Sewing Machine Attachment for Stiching Hat Tips to the Linings.

"7,867. 2' Patented August 8,1873.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JACOB L. OOLES, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 117,867, dated August 8, 1871.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JACOB L. 001118, of the city of Newark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, h, ve invented a new and useful Sewing-Machine Attachment for Stitching Hat- Tips to the Lining.

My invention consists in certain novelties of construction and arrangement of the devices for describing the oval; in a novel method of adjusting the turn table with relation to the needle and cutting mechanism in a novel method of adjustment by which the form of the oval may be varied; in anovel mode of transferring the apparatus from the cutting to the stitching mechanism in a novel mode of securing the turn-table while placing a tip thereon; and in a novel method of holding the tip onto the turn-table while being cut oval and stitched; and I do hereby declare that the following specification, taken in connection with the drawing furnished and forming a part of the same, is a true, clear, and exact description thereof.

In the drawing, Figure 1, sheet 1, represents, in perspective, a sewing-machine table with a sewing-machine, rotary shears, traveling-carriage, and turn-table to carry the hat-lining tips. Fig. 2, sheet 2, represents, in top View, the traveling-carriage, turn-table, and a portion of the sewing-machine. Fig. 3 represents a longitudinal vertical section on line m 00, Fig. 2. Fig. 4 represents, in perspective, the sliding gauge-plate with its connecting-lever. Fig. 5 represents abottom view of the turn-table, and Fig. 6 a side view of the same.

A in all the figures represents the carriage on which the turn-table is mounted. It is to be understood that my improvement has been particularly adapted to the Grover 85 Baker sewingmachine, and is also adapted to be used in connection. with the ordinary rotary shears. The

. line of the feedandtheicutting-line of the shears are practically coincident, the shears "and stitching mechanism being side by side, with a proper distance between. Parallel with the line of the feed and the faces of the shears are two railways, a, secured to the top of the table. Each is provided with-a side groove or 1ts equlvalent. The carriage is mounted on these rails in such a manner that, while it can be readily moved lengthwise on the rails, it cannot be detached from the table. This is effected by means of suitable devices, which engage with the side grooves in the rails. Attached to the side edge of the carriage is a spring-latch, b, which engages with notches cut in the edge ofone ofthe rails to when the carriage is in proper working position, and holds it securely either in front of the needle or the shears, as may be desired. When the carriage is to be moved the spring-latches are to be disengaged from the notches. B is the turn-table. It is circular in form, and, although it has a continuous periphery, it is n early divided into quarter sections by two diametrical slots, crossing each other at right angles and forming at the center a circular opening. A main stud, 0, attached to the top surface of a sliding gaugeplate, D, is so fitted through slots in the turn-table that, while the table can befreely turned in any direction permitted by the slots, it cannotbe detached from the gaugeplate unless the stud be first removed. All auxiliary stud, E, mounted upon one end of a horizontal pivoted lever, F, projects upward through the slots in the same manner as the main stud 0, already described. The opposite end of the lever F projects beyond the side of the carriage, and is held in any desired position by means of a slot and set-screw, 0, operating in a well-known manner. At the outer ends of each slot in the turntable are check-blocks, held in position by setscrews 67, by which the length of the slots may varied. It is obvious, when the main and auxiliary studs are closely adjacent and the checkblocks properly adjusted to correspond, that the oval form described will be but slightly varied from a circle, while, on the contrary, when the studs are widely separated the form of the oval will be correspondingly lengthened, provided that the slots be proportionably elongated by setting the check-blocks. Projecting upward from the upper surface of the gauge-plate D, atits outer end, is a stud, i, which is sufficiently far beyond the main stud O to allow the pin 8 in the checkblocks to pass between them, which prevents the turn-table from being drawn directly toward the cutting or stitching mechanism when the center of the oval described is furthest from the line of the feed or shears. The gauge-plate D occupies a slot in the carriage, and is composed of two parts, a base-plate, c, and a crown-plate, f. It is to the crown-plate that the turn-table is attached. The base-plate is connected, by athunibscrew, 9, and its tap, to the outer end rail of the carriage in such a manner that by turning the thumb-screw the gauge-plate and tiu'n-tablc may be moved on the carriage to and from the stitching or cutting mechanism, and thus vary the size of the oval to be cut or stitched. The crownpl ate f is attached to the base-plate c by means of set-screw m operating in a slot cut in the crownplate. The object to be accomplished by this mode of adjustment is the ready facility by which, after having put one line of stitches around a certain periphery by a slight independent longitudinalmovement of the crown-plate, a still smaller or a greater oval can be described on the same piece of fabric. Short scales, prepared in an obvious manner, are placed at n and also at 0 for determining the exact movement of the crownplate independent of the base-plate, as well as to determine the movement given to the gaugeplate a s a whole independent of the carriage. The turn-table is surmounted by a face-plate, oval in form. The two are connected by means of screws. Projecting upward from the surface of the faceplate are several sharp-pointed spurs, p, for holding the fabric to the plate. A holding-block, G, of cork or other suitable material, is employed in connection with the spurs. A thumb-lever, H, so mounted that its inner end will engage with the face-plate of the turn-table at r, is provided for the purpose of holding the turn-table in the desired position while the fabric is being placed thereon.

Before explaining the operation of my apparatus I will first state that the tip of a hat is what might be termed the crown-piece of the lining. The sides of the lining are stitched to the tip at one edge and to the inside edge of the rim at the other edge. The tips are usually made of silk, upon which some ornamental device, motto, or name ofmaker has already been printed. These printed devices or mottoes, when the hat is completed, should be made to show or read on a line across the smallest diameter of the oval. hen printed the pieces are usually square or of irregular form. Such a piece of fabric is placed upon the turn-table, being first careful that the thumblever H engages with one of the recesses 1" in the turn-table face-plate and that the horizontal line of the printed device extends across the narrow portion of the oval. The holding-block G is pressed down upon the iabric, the spurs p penet *ating the lower surface of the block; the lever H is then disengaged, the carriage placed in front of the cutting mechanism, and the latch I) put in proper relation with the notch in the rail nearest to the cutting'sliears. of the oval is determined by the scale at 0 or n; the edge of the fabric is then inserted between the shears, which are then rotated, while the table is turned by the hand or by the drawing action of the shears the latch 71 is then disengaged and the carriage brought in front of the stitching mechanism, when. the latch again engages with the proper notch in the rail to; the lining is then placed with its edge and the edge of the tip into proper relations udth a hemming and foldingguide, I, operating in the usual manner in front of the needle. Upon starting the machine the feed-motion revolves the table. Upon completin g this line of stitching, or. even before that is done, a line of embroidery-stitchin g can beputinto the tip, and the distance between the two lines of stitching may be varied, as desired, and determined by means of the scales at n and 0, as already described.

I am aware that devices have heretofore been constructed for accomplishing the same results as are effected by my own apparatus; and

1 therefore claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. The carriage A, the oval turning mechanism, and the screw for adjusting the same in relation to the stitching and cutting mechanism, when combined with and made movable laterally on ways parallel to the line of the feed-motion of the sewiug-machine, as described.

2. The carriage A, sustaining the oval turning mechanism, mounted on 'ailways and controlled by latches, in combination with stitching and cutting mechanism, as described.

3. The combination of the turn-table slotted as described, the main stud, and the auxiliary stud, the table being partially controlled in its movement with relation to the stitching mechanism b y the stud 7 as and for the purposes specified.

4. The adjustable lever for controlling the auxiliary stud, in combination with the turn-table slotted as described, the central stud, and the auxiliary stud, as and for the purposes specified.

5. The combination of the stop-latch and the turn-table iacc- )late, substantially as described.

JACOB L. ()OLES.

Witnesses PHIL. F. LARNER, WM. 0. W001).

The proper size 

